Last month the New York Times published my story about a 2,700 mile bike race, climate change, floods and fires. But that was only half the story. I had worked on this story for over three years and along the way, I met three baby black bears and two grizzlies outside Banff; witnessed a war between magpies, squirrels, chipmunks and ravens; slept fitfully in sketchy hotels with windows that didn’t lock and signs warning guests to not let moose inside the building — which begs the question,